Ireland is known for being a fan favorite destination. I thought at first that its popularity was maybe because it’s a good destination for Americans who want to travel internationally to an English-speaking location, and there are just less of those to rank.
But that they speak English is actually the least enticing thing about it. Ireland is welcoming, cozy, comfortable, fresh, and absolutely stunning. The cliffy coastline, the rugged beaches, the crumbling architecture all make for a delightful feast for the eyes.
Kevin and I, along with our good friends Amber and Ross, were able to spend over a week in September 2023 driving around Ireland and Northern Ireland in a rental car, getting a lovely taster of Irish experiences.
I spent a long time developing the best route for us.
At A Glance
- Day 1: Dublin
- Day 2: Drive to Killarney or Tralee
- Day 3: Dingle Peninsula
- Day 4: Drive to Galway
- Day 5: Drive to Sligo
- Day 6: Drive to the Dark Hedges
- Day 7: Drive to Belfast
- Day 8: Return to Dublin
You’re probably thinking that this sounds like a lot of driving. But there are so many amazing sights to see along the way that none of it really feels that long. Obviously if you don’t want a driving-intensive trip, you can find many other options for Ireland with fewer locations that are closer together. But we like to see a good amount when we travel, so this worked well for us.
Day 1: Dublin
On the day you arrive, make sure to hit a few main sites, but otherwise just take it all in. Start with a leisurely meal.
Follow lunch with some sightseeing on foot while making your way across town.
This is a great time to head to the Guinness Storehouse Museum!
I will say that so many guides for Dublin mention the Guinness Storehouse that it feels almost mandatory. But after having seen it myself, I’d say that you shouldn’t feel obligated to set aside time for this unless brewing and beer are already interests of yours.
Trinity College would be a great alternative in this time slot.
After you’ve drank your Guinness and have your fill of the views from the top, walk or cab your way back to the Temple Bar area.
Temple Bar draws a lot of tourist crowds, but it’s still a fun neighborhood in a centrally located spot.
It wasn’t the easiest place to find a decent vegetarian offering (Amber and I are both vegetarians), but we got to the point that we were all starving, so we picked a restaurant that had veggie burgers on the menu. There are lots of places to get a bite if you’re less picky, though.
It is nice to fill up and rest your feet before going for one last walk to get back to your accommodations in the twilight. If you feel like having a nightcap, stop at the Brazen Head Pub, self-proclaimed Ireland’s oldest pub.
Day 2: Drive to Killarney or Tralee
The next morning after checkout, pick up your rental car and get on your way West.
It was Kevin’s first experience driving on the right side of the car and on the left side of the road. It didn’t seem to take him very long at all to get used to it, luckily.
Your first stop is Kilkenny to see the trip’s first castle. The town of Kilkenny is also extremely charming to walk through.
The castle is lovely and well-maintained.
It is also easy to stumble upon some churches as you wander Kilkenny.
Then hit the road again, with the next stop being the Rock of Cashel, which is a historic site featuring medieval architecture and ties to Irish kings and Christianity. It sits on a lonely hill away from most other tourist draws, but it is conveniently on the way to the west coast. I’m very glad we stopped to see it.
It is surprisingly large!
Then back in the car on your way to the final destination of the day, which can be Killarney or Tralee (or other towns in this vicinity).
Most guides will recommend staying in Killarney, and I’m sure that is a good idea. But we chose to stay in Tralee for the sole purpose that we had wanted to stay overnight in a castle at least once, and Tralee was the location of the closest one to our route we could find within our budget.
We stayed two nights at Ballyseede Castle, and it was great!
After dinner, relax in a pub after your busy day of sightseeing.
Day 3: Dingle Peninsula
The next morning, if you’re staying at Ballyseede, have a fabulous breakfast in their stunning dining room.
We didn’t end up with enough time to do both the Dingle Peninsula and the Ring of Kerry, so I agonized for ages about which to focus on. In the end I chose Dingle, but with a few accessible spots from Kerry tacked on. If you have an extra day, I definitely recommend doing one each day.
If you like churches, start out with a quick stop in Killarney to see St. Mary’s Cathedral.
This place is a monster of a church! I had no idea it would be this huge!
There was a service going on, so we didn’t go inside.
Next up, Ross Castle! They do guided tours.
After Ross Castle, the Gap of Dunloe is not far away. It was one of my favorite locations!
The roads are very narrow in this area, but we didn’t have any issues. Just be cautious and follow good driving etiquette.
After this taste of Kerry, backtrack towards the Dingle Peninsula. With whatever time you have left on this day, travel around the Slea Head Loop.
The Slea Head Loop is a one-way road around the main sights of the peninsula. Stop however often you want to. There are plenty of options!
The Loop begins and ends in Dingle town.
You can find a lot of restaurants in Dingle. Murphy’s is also a famous ice cream shop that’s worth a visit.
Day 4: Drive to Galway
There are several great things to see between Dingle and Galway. Options include the Bridges of Ross, the Kilkee Cliffs, Bunratty Castle and Folk Park, and the Cliffs of Moher. Different combinations will give you different routes.
Our first stop was Bunratty, and I’d highly recommend it if you enjoy history, culture, or architecture. They have historical buildings that you can wander through.
Bunratty Castle can also be explored.
The Cliffs of Moher are perhaps the most famous Irish sight and not to be missed. It’s popular for a reason!
Get your fill of the views, and then Galway will be waiting to entertain and feed you for the last several hours of the day.
Day 5: Drive to Sligo
There is not anything in particular that makes Sligo a must-see, but it is a good mid-point between sights on this itinerary.
The main draw for day 5 is Ashford Castle. This is a destination for anyone who wants to enjoy the fancy side of life for an afternoon.
But first, you are likely to drive right past a hidden gem known as Ross Errilly Friary. It is visible at a distance from the road.
It dates from somewhere in the 1300-1400s, and it’s quite well-preserved for an unmaintained ruin.
Now onto Ashford Castle, which definitely IS well-maintained!
It’s a pretty expensive place to stay the night, but you can get onto the property by having any reservation, including for tea or a hawk walk. Why not both?!
The hawks are so majestic, and the workers take great care of them. Seeing them up close is really special!
Make sure you have a change of shoes if you do tea after a hawk walk. It wouldn’t be good to get mud inside the castle!
Tea in Ireland, just like in England, is a whole affair.
But if you’re well-behaved, they might let you poke around the place a little longer once you’re done.
If you still have time and energy after this, other nearby sights include Kylemore Abbey and Dún Briste Sea Stack.
Then relax in peaceful Sligo for the evening.
Day 6: Drive to the Dark Hedges
Donegal Castle makes a nice morning pit stop.
Next up is the Slieve League Cliffs, which just might rival the Cliffs of Moher in their beauty.
But it’s a good long walk to get to the main viewpoint. Be prepared!
However there are great views on the way that make it worth it.
Time to venture over the border! Northern Ireland is part of the UK, but there is generally no passport control between the two. But Northern Ireland uses miles per hour, while Ireland uses kilometers, so don’t get confused by the different signage.
A stop in Derry/Londonderry makes a nice break.
There is a lot of historical importance to this town, if you know or want to research more about the Troubles. There are murals all over that turn this turmoil into political art.
It’s also worth checking out the walls around the town.
After your afternoon or evening meal, head towards your accommodation for the evening. I recommend staying at the Hedges Hotel if you are hoping to see the Dark Hedges with less people around.
This enchanting and endangered line of trees is in a more rural area with not much around. People come from all over to see them, but if you stay in the nearby hotel, you can walk across the street late and/or early when no tour groups are around.
Day 7: Drive to Belfast
The Dark Hedges are even more magical in the early morning fog!
Some of the trees have been lost recently due to storms, but the locals are doing their best to protect them. Tourists are no longer allowed to drive down this road, but you may see some people do it anyway. Don’t be that jerk.
The Hedges Hotel has a great breakfast, which is good, because nothing else is around!
Then it’s off to another of my favorites from this trip: Dunluce Castle!
Dunluce Castle is a ruin now, but there’s a legend about the lady of the castle who abandoned it suddenly when the kitchen collapsed into the sea one night. She noped out of there real quick!
In spite of that story, it is considered safe to explore it.
It’s in such a serene location and so tragically beautiful to see, that I would definitely recommend it if you like castles.
The Giant’s Causeway is more famous, and it is quite nearby. Definitely worth a stop!
This is another sight that includes a decent walk from the parking lot. You could pay a little to take the bus, but when we were there, the line to wait for the bus was so long on the way back that it was faster just to walk.
But there is nothing quite like these strange natural rock formations!
Further down the coast line you can fine Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. We didn’t visit, but I seriously considered adding it to our itinerary.
If you’re into Game of Thrones, there are some interesting things for you to see in Northern Ireland. The Game of Thrones doors are an interesting way that Northern Ireland turned a problem into art.
When several of the Dark Hedges trees were felled by the weather, they were used to carve intricate doors with scenes from Game of Thrones, and then installed in businesses around the area near shooting locations.
We saw a few of the doors and Cushendun Caves, the scene of Melisandre’s shadow baby birth.
Then it is off to Belfast, home of the Titanic!
You can do a leisurely tour of the Titanic Museum, and finish the night with a relaxed dinner.
Day 8: Return to Dublin
The end of the trip is near. This is the day to return the rental car and squeeze in a few more sights and activities.
Kilmainham Gaol is a popular tourist draw in Dublin that can be fun to see. Take a tour if you’re into history or true crime.
Depending on the timing of your flight home, you can choose to stay in downtown Dublin or perhaps in one of the hotels surrounding the airport.
Traveling to Ireland and Northern Ireland will uplift you with the stunning landscapes, historical ruins, and classy yet relaxed culture. I consider it one of my top two favorite destinations (currently tied with Switzerland). If you’re considering it, just start planning already!
Sightseeker 